Just another Day in Paradise

Queen's Bath calm 

Queen's bath not so calm seconds later

beautiful snorkelling spot

Well, we have officially finished our stay on the Hawaiian islands.

Waimea canyon

NaPali ridge

Narrow ridge trails 

The Valley where Jurassaic Park was filmed

We finished with the island of Kauai. We faired the first few days on the island  with heavy rains and no rental car as they were sold out or extremely expensive. So we donned our rain gear as true Oregonians and rode the bus or hitched rides. We slept in a tent through torrential rains the first two nights and managed to stay dry. By the third night water was making its way through the tent and we knew it was time to move to the drier side of the island. We stayed with Nina, who is a friend of a friend, and we had some really nice time together. We had a rainy day visiting, sharing meals and watching some very thought provoking movies that I had heard could not find copies of in the video stores. Nina helps with a Biodynamic farm on the island which is an interest near and dear to our hearts and gave us lots to discuss and share and learn. By our fourth day we managed to "rent a wreck"; a rental from one of the local island agencies. The car ran great but had a few bumps and bruises which made us look like one of the locals. We now had wheels of our own and had to really make up for the three days lost to heavy rain. We ended up visiting places a second time when the weather cleared up, to see how different the water and scenery looked in the sunshine. We visited farmer's markets and health food stores and loaded up on bananas papayas, avocado, and jicama for our meals. We then made our descent to Waimea Canyon to position ourselves to position ourselves for a ten mile hike along the Na Pali Coast Ridge. We stayed at Camp Sloggett, a YMCA camp on a rough dirt road- this must have deterred other visitors, because, like on Maui, once again we had the entire camp all to ourselves. Acres of beauty, a kitchen, bunk house, as well as sitting and dining area all to ourselves. We had great hot showers and made dinner and settled in for two days. The next day we got an early start for our hike (we were on the trail by 7:45 am) to slide down mud and rocks for the first couple of miles. It then opened up to our first set of views which made it clear that we were doing the hike that we wanted to do. Kauai has hikes that are not for everyone. You must be willing to get muddy, cross rivers, climb through brush to find a new route because the original trail had been washed out and had become a 2000 foot drop or walk carefully along high narrow ridges with similar sheer drops on both sides. However the rewards that come in the views that most only see by helicopter or  or biplanes makes it all worthwhile. It also makes a hot shower at the end of the day feel really good, as well as keeps us in shape. Many of the views we saw were of remote  valleys and neatly folded mountains where scenes of Jurassic Park were filmed. The Waimea Canyon is Kauai version of a small Grand Canyon with bright red dirt, green grasses, jungle plants and waterfalls. We slept well after a great day with good weather and lots of exercise. When we returned, Camp Sloggett was again ours exclusively for a second night with a sky so clear that we were able to do the best star gazing I have seen since I was about 10 years old. Orion and Cassiopeia, so clear and easy to distinguish! The air was warm late at night and we felt like kids at summer camp of long ago.

Our lunch  view spot on the trail

first viewpoint on the trail

Camp Sloggett to ourselves

Fred Flintstone type structures  along the ocean

Camp Nanea before tsunami

After Tsunami

          The next day we were starting to have swimming and snorkeling withdrawals so we headed down from the Canyon to Poipo Beach to get our fix. Afterwards we hiked along the Lithified sand that had formed columns and formations much like Fred Flintstones house. The weather was hot and the sun feeling intense- it was nice to not have rain. We picked up our new friend Nina at her place in Lawai and drove her to the Farmer's Market in Kapaa and spent some time together there and went to a restaurant that served all Raw Vegan food. We enjoyed new taste sensations and spent another night enjoying Nina and her comfortable home. Thursday morning, March 11th, turned out to be an eventful day and night for many around the world as it was the day of the earthquake and tsunami in Japan. We have had virtually had no media contact for weeks. so it seemed like a good day to head down from the south coast to the north coast to position ourselves for another hike we were hoping to do of the Na Pali Coast Ridge on the opposite side of the other hike. We arrived at Camp Nanea  another beautiful YMCA camp right on the ocean with an outstanding  beach. We snorkeled at the tunnels beach, which had fun tunnels and caves to swim through along with some pretty rough surf. The sand was churned up and even though we saw fish in some of the tunnels, our visibility was not good in the water and the surf was pushing us to the rocks. That along with the rain clouds had that had snuck in told us that it was time to duck out of the rain. We walked down the beach to huge dry cave, and then as the rain moved on, we proceeded to the wet caves down the road. At tis point our stomachs were telling us that it was getting close to dinner time. We settled in and made sandwiches back at the YMCA camp and enjoyed watching and incredible kite boarder jumping the huge waves and a few other couples came out to watch the sunset. When the sun went down, Rick and I played cribbage by candlelight just feet away from the beach and our little cabin.
 Around 10:00 PM, while brushing our teeth we saw someone with a flashlight going around to each of the cabins. Being curious we waited, and a few minutes later the camp host was here informing

Kayaking and hiking on the Wailua River

Sunset from the YWCA camp 

 us if a tsunami warning and to pack up our stuff and head for higher grown. Knowing that the only road is along the coast around the whole island, at night time weren't quite sure what this meant, but we followed cars to the Princeville Market Center, which is higher and far enough from the ocean to be safe. We spent the night in our car along with hundreds of others, periodically turning on the radio for updates and to hear what was going on with Japan and Tsunami warnings. By 8:00 the next morning they opened the roads and we decided to go back to the camp to see if anything happened. To our surprise the fence was broken and coconuts with debris were strewn all over the neatly mowed lawn which had been spotless only the day before. The beach was wiped clean and there was sand on the cabin floor. We went for a long walk along the beach the now very different looking beach. Lots of sand had been shifted and the beach had new slopes and shapes. The damage on Kauai was very slight compared to places we visited on Maui and the Big Island. Buildings we had been to just days or weeks ago, we read in the paper, had been severely damaged and docks were completely gone. It made us re-realize the awesome power of Mother Nature and the Ocean.

kite boarder  who jumped some major waves

Beach at the YMCA where we were evacuated from later that night

     We didn't sleep much last night in the car but we only had two days left on the island and the weather was good so we headed for Queen's Bath. This is a beautiful large tidal pool perched at the ocean's edge with great snorkeling potential. After passing about about 10 warning signs of the danger ahead and looking at the very post-tsunami-turbulent, I told Rick he was crazy to go into the Queen's Bath even though it looked calm and serene at the time, the waves outside did not. Along the way we passed a stone with a count of swimmers drowned by high waves sweeping swimmers to their deaths. I opted not to go into the Queen's Bath. However Rick is into having at least one exciting adventure each day so he went in while i nervously photographed and tried not to be a naysayer of adventure. I figured one of us had to be able to go for the life buoy. Rick quickly and luckily made it to a ledge on the rocks as the Queen's Bath became a giant whirlpool when huge waves lapped over the side to fill the pool with twice the volume of water that was there seconds before. Mind you, at this point I could not see Rick on the rock ledge  I am yelling for him and another onlooker signals to me that they see him on a ledge. Rick is stuck there for two more big surges of waves pouring and churning the "bath" before he quickly gets out. My heart is pounding our of my chest and he wants to go back in because he saw some pretty fish. I said "NO!" He was all smiles. I was not so smiley however but relieved that we were heading back to the car. We stopped and had our first taste of Poi (purple taro root paste) and a good tasting smoothie at Banana Joe's Fruit Stand. The next two nights consisted of staying in Kapaa with our couch surfing host Deb. Her place was a great one to stay for our last two nights. We walked on the bike retail along the ocean for our last views of whales on Saturday. We then went on a five hour kayak/hike to Secret Falls with a few other couple and our guide Troy. One of the couples on our tour was a lovely Australian couple on their honeymoon who were delightful to spend the day with and we hope to cross paths with them again in Melbourne some day. The weather was the best of all our days on this island. The weather, very warm, clear bright blue sky with a few white puffy clouds. We kayaked up the Wailua River which earlier in the week, looked like a chocolate rive, but was back to a clear, calm, serene scene along the banks of a valley which used o be rice paddies and taro fields. Hiking into the jungle to Secreet Falls to dare the pounding waters falling from a 200 foot waterfall. We shlucked through mud and several river crossings but enjoyed every minute of it and glowed from six weeks of great times on the Hawaiian Islands. We ate out at Mermaids for a great dinner, a hot shower at Deb's place and a comfy bed to sleep in before heading towards our next destination: India.
As the world shifts do your best to be flexible and shift along as well.

Rick in the water at Secret Falls

wet cave

      

Whats Under the Surface

     During this journey we have discovered the beauty, strength and wonder under the surface of the ocean. We have encountered a world that is new and exciting to us.  This experience has served to remind us again of how little we really understand, or know, about many of the things we think we see.  We have found snorkeling to be a spiritual reflection of our life experience. Although we still know little about the new world we have discovered here on the Hawaiin islands, it has reminded us again and again of how much beauty is under the surface of the ocean, in the caves, or under the canopies of the forests and jungles, and in our brothers and sisters. 

     We have snorkeled numerous times, and each experience has been so distinctly different than the last.  One of our more challenging experiences was swimming two miles in the ocean to snorkel from Kealakekua Bay State park to the Captain Cook Monument. We spent 3 hours and 45 minutes swimming in the ocean fighting the currents and in water, so deep in parts we couldn't see where the bottom could possibly be. I saw a sea snake and different types of fish than other times. Rick had a boogie board attached to his ankle so we could stop for breaks. At one point we realized it had come loose and floated away in the waves.  I swam my fastest to catch the board, with success and a feeling of relief(it was kind of our security blanket). On our return, we got stuck in the current with the waves coming in and out. We were kicking for about ten minutes and not going anywhere. We had to head for deeper water, away from the shoreline to get into a current that worked with us, rather than against us. We enjoyed our challenge and were glad to see the shoreline . My ankles are still a bit sore from kicking in flippers for so long, but it was worth the discomfort. The coral forests and fish were fabulous.  We were hoping to swim with the spinner dolphins, as we had seen them in this bay before and watched them jumping over the snorkelers. We were hoping for a repeat performance over us, but are still very satisfied with our experience.

leaving for Captain Cook Monument

     When we first arrived in Hawaii, our friend Jeff picked us up at the airport and shared his beautiful off-the-grid home with us for a few days. He took us to some of the great beaches and beautiful swimming spots on the east side of the island, and also took us up in the high country to Volcanoes National Park. We went to a warm pond, which is a mixture of fresh and salt water, heated from steam vents to about 90 degrees. Jeff, and his wife Lani, made us delicious vegan meals and shared great conversation over several days. Their son entertained us with his creative mind in the evenings. We were so grateful for all there love and help getting us oriented on the Big Island.

 

Bob and Rick

   We moved to the Kona(west) side of Hawaii and met up with our Ashland friend, Bob. Bob is here for a month for some r and r, as well as shooting footage for his photography business(Wilderness Video).  We enjoyed dinners together on his deck overlooking the ocean, with beautiful sunsets. We went searching with him to find places to film other sunsets and scenic spots around the island.  Bob showed us his favorite beaches, and we enticed him to snorkel with us for his first time.  We enjoyed playing games in the evening, watching film taken during the day, took evening walks and enjoyed the night life and activity below the deck. We watched "just married" couples with their honking cars, and screaming fans passing below us on the "strip", as well as roller derby gals, and all types of passerby.  It was just great to be able to share good   conversation, food, friendship and time in Hawaii together. 

The Roller Derby Gals

     We had a local farmers market across the street from where we were staying, art galleries and live musical bands and performers in the open air restuarants around us. We ate papaya and passion fruit for breakfast and fresh tropical fruit smoothies in the evening. We saw spinner dolphins in the Captain Cook area, found an Avocado Festival and ran into another Ashland friend there. 

      We have been amazed at the diversity in scenery on the island. I had pictured it very differently in my mind. There are lava fields. grassland, high altitude in the volcanoes and craters, lush tropical areas, dry open areas and forest lands, as well as the beautiful coastlines and beaches.  I found Hawaii not to be as touristy as I had thought and not as flashy as I thought. It is real people living and working here, with the tourists thrown into the mix, and has the largest population of native Hawaiins. 

Julie in the Huge Banyan Tree

      I also realize that part of this feeling may come since we frequent health food stores and farmers markets, instead of restuarants and don't stay at resorts. One day, we hitched a ride back from one of the beaches and had people tell us they came here for a vacation and never went home. We have had lots of special moments with people as well as the sea turtles we saw on land and in the water. Our conversations with locals and the folks at the farmers markets were special and educating. We will be leaving Hawaii tomorrow for a day in Oahu and then onto Kauai.  Until then, enjoy life and stay warm.

Beautiful sunsets from Bob's deck